Three Rivers Form An Ocean

Thoughts on Spring:  Chapter 8

The end of February has arrived, and with each passing day, Springtime approaches Charleston as it has for more than three centuries.  Today, the temperature reaches the high 70’s, a perfect complement to the sunny, clear ‘Carolina blue’ skies.  Spring is the earth’s yearly gift to each of us, engendering a rebirth and reawakening in even the most callous of souls, and today in Charleston, the magnificence of the feeling reaches its zenith.

The whirl of activity around downtown’s Colonial Lake is evidence that Spring fever has captured many hearts, each person wanting to escape into the sunshine and capture the moment, bathed in Spring’s elixir for revitalization.  Around the lake’s sidewalks, skateboarders defy gravity with their daredevil moves; inline skaters glide by, some effortlessly, others a bit more awkwardly; joggers are everywhere, straining to gulp the sweet, fresh air.  Meanwhile, others are simply out walking, young and old, some by themselves while others chat with their companions.  The numerous park benches are just as inviting for some.  The feeling is unmistakable.  Charleston is alive, and no more vibrant than on this gorgeous early Spring day.  In a few months, early May usually, the massive plantings of Oleander bushes, which line the shoreside walkways of Colonial Lake, will burst into bloom giving further promise to the continuation of the color extravaganza throughout the city.

As I walked from lakeside, down Ashley Avenue toward the Battery, my senses went wild.  Charleston cannot be more beautiful than in the Spring, with its profusion of flowers.  Behind the brick walls, and iron gates, venerable green spaces of gardens are coming alive.  Lightly scented Cherokee Rose vines tumble over the walls, under the canopies of giant live oaks that stand guard over centuries old walled-in gardens.  Bradford Pear trees have exploded with fine, white flowers, which are picture-framed in the backgrounds by the stately old homes, standing with such grandeur.  Tulip Magnolias are early bloomers, with their “tulip-like” petals of soft lavender and white.  Purple Wisteria blossoms, cascading over and softening the sharp spikes atop wrought iron fences, begin to shower the sidewalks with their delicate petals, and their perfume fills the air. 

Camellias thrive in the cool Spring air, and are a staple of most gardens.   Today the display of the pinks, whites, and reds of the flowering Camellias are at their peaks.  Bowers of Lady Banks’ Roses, not yet in bloom, crown the walkways of old, salvaged brick.  Peering through the iron fences, the lushness of the new green growth is evident.  Here and there Greek-inspired statues lend a certain serenity to the scene.

When viewed in this manner, Charleston is a city set in a garden, caught between time, both yesterday and today, and pinched geographically by its rivers.   As early as the sixteenth century, French explorers wrote, describing a wilderness abloom with cherry laurel, pink dogwood, magnolia, and jasmine. 

The first settlers began building houses and planting gardens, right from the start.  Houses were built close together, with their porches or piazzas positioned on high to capture what breezes could cool the day, and overlooking long sideyards enclosed by brick walls and entered through wrought iron gates.

Tantalizing garden views from the piazzas were important.  Within these enclosed spaces, early Charlestonians reached into their European landscape tradition, and created formal plantings defined by geometric axes and raised planting beds.  Later, Charleston gardeners would combine these European influences with plantings from Asia, including azaleas, gingko trees, and camellias.  When combined with local flowering vines and trees native to the lowcountry, the lush gardens were created, and have since become a famous landmark for the city.  The garden tradition endures.  Each garden, now distinctive, reflects the personalities of their owner, some romantic, others formal, and some casual.  Whether glimpsed from the street, or savored from within their flowery depths, each suggests a kind of paradise on earth.

Today, it is apparent from the looks and smiles of passersby that, even though Charlestonians have grown up surrounded by these loveliest of gardens, they have not lost their fascination.  Residents are out on the streets, some walking their dogs, all basking in the sunshine, and clearly enjoying the freshness of the Spring air and the exquisite explosion of nature’s new season.  The moment is shared with the countless tourists, cameras in hand, who have come to experience Charleston’s genteel, historic beauty.

As I walk the sidewalk along Murray Boulevard, the iron railing alone separates the passerby from craggy rocks ten feet below, which serve as banks for the Ashley River.  Peering over the railing, my mind moves to ponder the relentless water slapping against the rocks, retreatin