INTRODUCTION
RELAXED AND NATURAL AFRO HAIR
A SPECIAL CHALLENGE IN THE CARIBBEAN
Taking care of natural and chemically treated hair has always posed its own special set of challenges. However, living in the Caribbean and having hair that has been permed, chemically relaxed , coloured or natural requires special care that sometimes borders on fanaticism.
On most days, one’s hair in the Caribbean is exposed to the full effects of the sun, with temperatures sometimes soaring to over eighty degrees Fahrenheit. This is further compounded by sea bathing, boat trips, constant lively breezes and the use of chlorinated pools. While these are the very factors that Travel Agents use to sell a great holiday experience in the Caribbean, it is particularly worrying for the many inhabitants who have to cope with these conditions year round. While most persons usually take care to protect their skin from the dryness caused by the sun’s UV rays, they tend to ignore the protection of their hair. Wearing a hat, can protect the hair from the sun, however when hats are worn, they are more of a fashion accessory rather than a form of protection.
RELAXERS
Hair that is relaxed with a Sodium Hydroxide based product for instance, is prone to dryness. As a result, this becomes a situation where the hair needs to be constantly moisturised using products with UV protection. If this is not done, severe dryness results, with the occurrence of daily hair loss.
No-Lye relaxers should be used with caution as their constant or over-use can produce hair that is extremely dry and brittle. One might suppose that this issue can be resolved by simply relaxing the hair to a lesser Degree, thus ensuring that the hair will be stronger, with far less damage to the hair strands. However, one now has to be prepared for an ongoing battle with frizz brought about by the high levels of humidity in the atmosphere. The key therefore, to keeping hair manageable, shiny and beautiful lies in the knowledge and use of moisturising hairdressing creams, moisturising shampoos, deep penetrating conditioners, rich leave-in conditioners, sun protection sprays, serums and hair polishers.
COLOURED HAIR
Coloured and bleached hair is subject to even greater challenges, of which the prevalent alkaline UV sunshine rays are the most worrying. The ultra violet rays also causes lightening and fading of the colour pigment of the hair. This powerful effect, and not the Stylist’s ability may well be the deciding factor in determining the final colour results of one’s hair.
The combination of sun, sea and chlorine can have a tremendous bleaching effect on the hair. A day tour on a boat, with sea bathing and sunbathing can produce dramatic changes in hair colour. The resulting ‘sun-kissed hair’ though lovely and alluring, can become dry, brittle, and prone to breakage.
Because of the high temperature levels in the Caribbean, the method of blow-drying hair tends to be easier and more comfortable than the hot, hood – dryer option. This however, significantly adds to high levels of dryness in the hair. Care should be taken when drying hair that has been coloured, by using lower temperatures of heat from the blow dryer, or allowing the hair to dry naturally. This will ensure that excessive pressure is not placed on the hair strands, so that they do not break off.
EFFECTS OF HUMIDITY
The constant high humidity present in the atmosphere creates yet another challenge, and adds its own share of frustration. Hair that is perfectly straight one minute can puff and become a mass of frizz in the next. Hair that was blow-dried to achieve that high level of bounce and fullness, can droop immediately one goes out doors. The speed with which humidity affects the hair is always experienced the minute someone steps out from an aircraft that has come from a country with less atmospheric humidity, and has landed in the Caribbean.
Unfortunately, humidity is a very real part of the Caribbean experience, and so one must always be aware of products that cope effectively with it. The use of anti-frizz serums, help to seal the cuticle (the outer layer of the hair strand), and blocks the penetration of moisture from the atmosphere, while adding shine to the hair.
EFFECTS OF CHLORINE
The levels of chlorine present in swimming pools can cause extreme damage to the hair, especially in combination with the harsh rays of the sun. Some form of protection is needed before swimming in such pools. Leave-in conditioners which are alcohol free can be used; moisturising, deep penetrating conditioners with heavy waxes and oils can also be slathered on the hair to counteract the effects of the chlorinated water. Some of the local residents advocate the application of oils, such as olive oil, coconut oil, and the heavy, dark, locally produced castor oil. The idea being that oil provides a barrier which does not allow for the penetration of chlorine and other chemical elements present in the pool. Others argue too, that putting oil on hair and being out in the sun has the effect of ‘frying’ out the hair, (as in heat and oil), and this can only serve to dry the hair further. Therefore, after a lengthy session in the pool, there must be a thorough washing of the hair with a moisturising shampoo followed by an equally rich moisturising conditioner which will help improve the general condition of the hair, and allow for a positive effect from long and frequent visits to the pool.
Sometimes too, just rinsing the chlorine from the hair with warm water, followed by the application of a moisturising leave-in conditioner, will help eliminate the harsh drying effects that frequent shampooing can have on chemically treated hair.
Can relaxed or natural Afro hair stand up to the rigors of a daily shampoo and condition process, or even a twice or thrice weekly shampoo? This can only be determined by the results obtained with the use of specific products; by the amount of care required to sustain healthy looking hair, and the discipline to refrain from using quick tricks which, as implied produces quick but not lasting, damage –free results.
EFFECTS OF SWEAT
Another challenge is that hair quickly becomes soiled while going about one’s daily routine, including exercising in such hot and humid conditions. This produces high levels of sweat, which settles and dries on the hair and scalp. Coupled with this is the dust and grime that is blown about by the ever prevailing winds. While these breezes soothe and add a much needed reprieve from the heat, they too share in depositing unwanted elements on the hair. The very leave-in conditioners, oils and pomades used to combat the frizz and heat effects, provides a suitable base for the dust to settle on. When the sweat combines with some activators, gels, moisturizers, hair lotions and creams, it produces a strange metallic, almost sour odour, which can be quite unpleasant to encounter. Again, frequent and careful shampooing seems like the only possible solution to combat this problem.
SCALP DISORDERS
For those with a naturally dry scalp, or any severe scalp disorders, the sun can have a punishing effect on such scalp conditions, especially after a lovely day at the beach. With continued exposure, the scalp can become severely dehydrated, and sun-burns will occur, resulting in more dryness, flaking and sometimes peeling of the skin and scalp. This can be quite unpleasant, as one is caught between trying to use oils, heavy pomades and topical solutions to ease the itching and flaking, while the use of those tend to prevent the large scaly flakes from being easily freed from the scalp.