Just before heading on to Mackville, I experience a most bizarre incident, even by my own somewhat warped standards. A small, gray pickup truck is parked beside a little bridge over a creek, which I was considering pausing at to cool off in. I figured the owner of the truck was probably fishing. Well…two things happen simultaneously: I decide it is too muddy to bother with, and, as I pedal on by, a clean-cut young man steps out of the driver’s side, totally nude and masturbating his little heart out! We’re talkin’ not even shoes, ladies and gentlemen. It all happens so fast and it is so utterly unexpected, that I just remember him saying, with an almost apologetic smile, “I’m sorry. I just can’t help it!”
In my discomfort and shock I blurt out “Are ya cool enough?” And I pedal on, (because, really, what else can I do?), shaking my head in disbelief at what I just saw, oblivious of my surroundings, focusing on my strokes (as he evidently also was). Then, less than a mile further, there he is again, still nude, and, yes, still at it! They grow ‘em persistent around here, don’t they? This time I swerve a bit to my left as I pass by where he is standing, because by the look on his face, I am afraid I might get a shot of it in the leg, which I really prefer to avoid. So, ok, before it was kind funny, but now I am feeling icky and freaked. Before I realize what I am doing, my midbrain clicks into a “was- I-completely-crazy-and-naïve-to-have-come-alone-on-this-trip” mode. My gut reaction was initially amusement, slight disgust, but not anger. Should I have been offended? But exhibitionists are usually harmless, I remind myself. The second time I definitely feel vulnerability and panic. Had he been following me, and planned to pull over at the bridge, where he knew the traffic was minimal? Who the heck knows.
Before I have time to regain my composure and formulate a safety plan, I hear a woman’s voice calling out to me from her front porch. “Hey, would you like some cold water?” In a few minutes I am sitting on the porch with Donna, a cheerful, white-haired elder woman. As I drink from the tall, frosty glass of ice water she pours for me, we talk about what just happened. She laughs, slaps her leg, looks at me straight in the eye, and says, “Well, honey, why doesn’t that sort of thing ever happen to me?!” This immediately diffuses most if not all of my anxiety and feelings of having been harassed. We smile at each other, giggle, and shake our heads in bewilderment at male behaviors. Her middle-aged son, who has Down’s Syndrome, joins us on the porch, and it is a good moment.
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It is one long, dreary, hellishly hot ride into Leoti, and having spent three hours in Scott City has sort of given me a mental “late-start” attitude. There is definitely some beauty in the openness of rangeland, but hey, it is too bloody hot to notice. I have stocked up on more juices and water than usual, and I am keeping a close watch on signs of dehydration. At one point I simply have to stop, and the only place I see for miles around that has any shade is one cedar tree planted in a cemetery. I pedal over to it, on the lookout for the dreaded goatheads, place my bicycle up against the tree, and myself carefully and respectfully upon the comparatively cool marble gravestone of Hilda Gansta, 1892-1964. I know she would understand the necessity of this otherwise somewhat sacrilegious action. I lie down and nap for a while. It is one of those full-length stones, about the dimensions of a good sleeping pad. A pale pink Cadillac driven by a woman enters the cemetery while I lie there supine, now snacking on grapefruit juice and Oreos, trying to gather energy to go back out under the sun. I pray she will not report me for loitering or disturbing the dead. I can almost taste the air-conditioning wafting about her. Wisps of hair around her face are fluttering in the stream of air coming from the console. She finds the gravestone she is looking for, and steps outside to place some flowers on it.
Substantially refreshed, I thank Hilda and the cedar tree, and get back on the hot, blacktop road.
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There is a different,