The air is still, cool. A slight amount of humidity enhances
the musty odor that rises from the great herds roaming the grasslands. I crawl
out of the tent on my knees, rise, stretch and watch the genesis of the African
day. It brightens from a stark blue-black through pastel hues of reds and blues
interspersed with bronze, beige, and gold. Thin white clouds on the horizon
fracture the gilded sky into beams that radiate from the awakening source and
continually stretch upward toward zenith, then outward until the firmament saturates
with intense radiance when the sun enters the scene.
But wait! I have the proverbial horse before the cart! First
let me tell you how I came to be in Africa.
"We're now passing out over the Adriatic Sea," the
pilot announced. “Our route over Africa will take us east of Cairo, over
Khartoum and Addis Ababa, then we'll turn due south and head into Nairobi. Welcome
aboard. Sit back. Relax and enjoy the flight."
After breakfast I stood outside the Ambassador Hotel to absorb
the activity and energy, the hustle and bustle, emanating from the crowds that
moved along Moi Avenue. People in large cities seem always to be in a hurry
to get off the street and find safety and solace behind concrete walls. Not
all though, because some individuals hang out near sides of buildings, in doorways,
alleyways, watching the street migrants like predators scrutinizing their prey.
Travel books mention that the streets of Nairobi are infested with pickpockets
and con men. There's a certain sense of exhilaration and attentiveness stimulated
by the knowledge that "Faginism" did not die with the rescue of Oliver
Twist.
There are as many safari agencies in Nairobi as there are saloons
in Milwaukee and churches in Birmingham. Although they come with many facades
and prices, many are less then bona fide. Since a safari adventure topped my
agenda, I had to do some research so as not to be taken for just a ride.
Small herds of gazelles, wildebeests, and zebras, and occasional
giraffes fed near the tracks. When they heard the rattling railroad cars and
screeching wheels as the train neared, they would lift their heads and stare
in unison at the approaching train. Almost on cue, the antelopes bounded away.
The giraffes momentarily looked up and then returned to their meal.
To my surprise, ...I saw several small beige-brown, mottled
fishes emerge from the wavelets and slither toward a boulder about two meters
away. I watched them make their way across the hot, dry, open sand to an algal
mat that grew at the base of this rock. When I realized that I wasn’t
being overcome by sunstroke or thoughts of seminude women, and knowing that
I was not underwater, the images finally registered as real fish. These were
mudskippers.
The Africans say, “...that if you leave a footprint in
the sand, you will return to Africa.” I put my foot down firmly beneath
a frangapani tree, just off the Britannia Hotel’s parking lot, and left
a solid imprint.