In some instances, individuals test-drive a used vehicle only for a short period of time to determine if it is acceptable. They might be saving some time, but their test-drive is not long enough to make a valid judgment of the vehicle s true driving characteristics and its condition. Once purchased, the vehicle may be driven on many different types of roads and in a variety of conditions not included in the test-drive. Rather than wishing that you had test-driven a vehicle on the type of roads that you drive each day, make the decision that you will plan for an appropriate vehicle test-drive. This chapter focuses on test-driving the vehicle under specific predetermined driving conditions to further reveal its driving characteristics and its actual condition.
Prior to test-driving any vehicle, make certain that there is appropriate insurance coverage (i.e., some owners choose to let the vehicle insurance lapse or they fail to renew the premium because they are driving another vehicle), either through the vehicle owner's insurance policy, or through your own insurance policy. Regarding insurance, contact your insurance agent to explain that you will be test-driving vehicles. Ask your agent if your policy will provide coverage in the event that a vehicle owner does not have insurance. If your policy does not provide coverage, make certain that a vehicle owner's policy will provide coverage.
Follow a systematic sequence when performing the vehicle test-drive. Begin the evaluation by:
Check the steering wheel. After arriving at the vacant parking lot, stop the vehicle but keep the engine running. Next, repeatedly move the steering wheel just slightly to the left and the right to determine the amount of steering wheel free-play. When the steering wheel is moved slightly, a consistent amount of tension should be felt against your hands and fingers. The steering wheel should not have more than about one-eighth inch of sloppiness or free-play. If the steering wheel has excessive free-play, the tie rods, ball joints, or other steering and/or suspension system components may need to be replaced.
Check for a solid brake pedal. In the vacant parking lot, keep the engine running, and push the brake pedal hard and steady for about 15 seconds. When being pressed, the brake pedal should feel firm, as if it were being pushed against a solid barrier. As brake pedal pressure is applied, the pedal should not move a bit farther toward the front of the vehicle, and the brake pedal should not feel spongy. If the brake pedal does not feel solid, the brake lines may need to be bled, or the brake master cylinder could need to be replaced.
Test the automatic transmission. In the vacant parking lot, keep the engine running, and push the brake pedal firmly to keep the vehicle from moving. Next, slowly move the automatic transmission selector lever to "Park," then slowly to "Reverse," then slowly to "Drive," and then if the transmission is equipped, slowly to "L3," "L2," and "L1." Perform this shift sequence two or three times.
Regardless of whether the vehicle is front-wheel drive, rear-wheel drive, all-wheel drive, or four-wheel drive, the automatic transmission should not produce any clicking, banging, or thud noises. The vehicle should not jerk when the transmission selector lever is moved from "Park" to any of the gears. The automatic transmission should be able to be shifted smoothly and quietly. If noises are heard, vibrations felt, or jerking is detected, it might indicate that the transmission, the drive shaft(s), the universal joint(s), or the differential(s) might require expensive repairs.
Next, move the transmission selector lever into "Drive," then release your foot from the brake, but do not touch the accelerator. The vehicle should begin creeping forward rather than remaining stationary. If the vehicle remains stationary when the engine is idling and the transmission is in "Drive," it could indicate worn clutch discs or bands within the automatic transmission. Avoid buying a vehicle with automatic transmission problems because transmissions are expensive to repair.
Test the clutch manual transmission. In the vacant parking lot with the engine running, push the clutch pedal completely to the floor, and move the gearshift lever into 1st gear. This is the full-in clutch position (see Figure 5-1). Next, without touching the accelerator, very slowly let out the clutch until the vehicle just wants to begin moving forward. Push the clutch pedal in slightly, and then very slowly let it out again until you sense that the vehicle is again about to begin creeping forward. Note at what point or how far from the full-in position the clutch pedal has been let out before the vehicle just begins to creep forward. This is the clutch engagement point (see Figure 5-2).
If the clutch begins to engage when the pedal is about one-quarter to one-half way out from the full-in position, it still has some life remaining before it will need to be replaced. However, if the clutch engages when the pedal is almost all the way out, the clutch will need to be adjusted and, depending on the amount of clutch adjustment left, it may need to be replaced in the near future.
Clutch life depends on how a vehicle is driven. When inspecting a vehicle that has been driven over 60,000 miles, ask the owner if the clutch, and possibly the clutch cable, have been replaced. If the clutch and cable were replaced, the owner should be able to provide the service receipt.
Check if the steering pulls to one side. While still at the vacant parking lot, drive the vehicle at a slow rate of speed (i.e., 15 miles per hour or less). Move the steering wheel to the left and to the right to detect further sloppiness or free-play in the steering system. Next, drive slowly in a straight line, hold the steering wheel very loosely, and then apply the brakes until the vehicle comes to a complete stop. The vehicle should continue to track in a straight line when the brakes are applied. If the steering wheel pulls or the vehicle drifts slightly to one side, a front-end alignment, brake component adjustment, or wheel balancing might be required. However, if when the brakes are applied the steering pulls severely to one side, the vehicle could have serious steering and/or suspension problems. Therefore, consider buying another vehicle.
Check the anti-lock brakes. Certain used vehicles are equipped with ABS Anti-lock Brake System. An ABS brake system helps to prohibit the tires from skidding during braking, especially when a vehicle is driven on wet or icy road surfaces.
Ask the owner if the vehicle is equipped with anti-lock brakes. If it is equipped with ABS, inquire if the vehicle has a two-wheel or a four-wheel ABS brake system. Some vehicles are equipped with ABS on only the front two or the rear two wheels. Such a system may allow the two wheels not equipped with ABS to skid (i.e., the same as a vehicle that does not have ABS), thus limiting the vehicle s braking and handling in comparison to a vehicle equipped with a four-wheel ABS brake system. Therefore, it can be an advantage if a vehicle is equipped with ABS on all four-wheels. If the vehicle is equipped with ABS, test the system in a vacant parking lot.
First, shut off the engine and then restart it. After the engine has been started, the instrument panel ABS system test indicator light, should be lit for about 2 to 10 seconds (i.e., during the system test period). The ABS system test light should not remain lit after the system test period is completed. Next, when the vehicle is driven in the vacant parking lot, the brakes should be able to be applied hard without causing the ABS equipped wheels to lock and the tires to skid. If the ABS system test indicator light stays lit beyond the system test period, or if the ABS equipped wheels lock causing the tires to skid when the brakes are firmly applied, a qualified mechanic should inspect the vehicle s brake system.
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Pages: 109
